| ka-t questions need info. | |
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| Topic Started: Apr 26 2010, 03:15 AM (1,090 Views) | |
| ~J@NKY$13 | May 21 2010, 12:28 AM Post #76 |
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^ I know plenty of people that use Enthalpy tunes and no one has issue w/ them. besides that when it some to peoples motors get blown there are things that I personally think about. was it a tuner issue or was it a build issues or a faulty part issue. seems most people never think about that. |
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| mo_hish | May 21 2010, 12:32 AM Post #77 |
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lol dammit.. it seems you guys still dont get it. Enthalpy and Emance are not the same!! Emance steals Calums tunes, tweaks them, and then pawns them off as his own, and then uses the Enthalpy name as a keyword in his eBay sales to keep his credibility... Apparently it works... Just peruse the link I posted and you'll get the jist of it. Edited by mo_hish, May 21 2010, 12:33 AM.
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| ~J@NKY$13 | May 21 2010, 12:34 AM Post #78 |
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Damn it I dont think you understand that I all ready know about this and Knew about RS Enthalpy when I was still living down in Clearwater Fl 2000-2005
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| mo_hish | May 21 2010, 12:36 AM Post #79 |
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Hm, ok. Got a bit confused when you responded defending Enthalpy tunes. |
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| ~J@NKY$13 | May 21 2010, 12:42 AM Post #80 |
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well, I am... go on [url=www.tamparacing.com]Tamparacing[/url] and see the people that are running them and see what they have to say about em. still no issues. |
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| mo_hish | May 21 2010, 12:56 AM Post #81 |
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lol I guess you really don't get it. I'm not saying anything bad about Enthalpy... |
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| NAhookup | May 21 2010, 01:23 AM Post #82 |
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Too lazy to read the million replies in this thread, but Im going to make a few standpoints here in there I would suggest based off this reply. First of all, -3an lines and fittings are harder and harder to come by, go with -4an lines if need be a .063 oil restrictor for the turbo. The -4an lines are not expensive at all, nor the fittings for them. 2nd-You personally know, I suggest over 370's still. 3rd-As for where to mount the BOV, there is no real reason to have it on either side, it will still do its job, I think the big preference should be where its easiet to access and where its easiest to route vacuum lines to it. When you close the throttle, the BOV opens and replaces the throttle as the lowest pressure area in the intercooler pipes. All the pressurized air in the pipes will flow towards it. Putting the BOV next to the throttle body ensures the air keeps moving in the right direction. No reversing in the pipes. The turbo will actually keep spinning and pushing boost briefly, pretty much for the duration of the discharge sound. If the BOV is on the opposite side of the intercooler, the turbo has to keep most of the IC pipes pressurized during that time. If you can shift and open the throttle before the turbo loses momentum, you will basically not lose boost for more than a fraction of a second. If you put the BOV near the turbo, all the air in the pipes will reverse and try to flow back towards the bov. While the turbo is losing momentum, it wont keep the IC pipes pressurized at all. When the turbo starts trying to push boost again, it will have to get all that air moving, which will slightly delay recovery of full boost. 4-AEM and UEGO Wideband are the same thing as far as I'm concerned. The AEM UEGO. 5-As far as engine management goes, buying some "pre-tuned" ECU off the internet seems kind of like a dangerous situation. Regardless of the setup you have, none is the same, and there is no way for any 1 company to be able to compensate for different setups on different cars. If it were this easy, I would not need to have my car tuned at all on full standalone engine management. I could simply just tell some random guy that claims to tune cars, "Hey I have a t3/t04e miata on 10psi, 1.8L, 460cc injectors. Tune my car" Sure he can probably make me a decent basemap that I can get my car to the dyno on. The internet cannot compensate for altitude, current temperatures, engine load, humidity, vacuum leaks, exhaust leaks, barometric pressure on each and every day. It would basically be a decent basemap to ride on but never make great power on efficiently and safely. Just because one guy made "400hp" here from their tunes doesn't mean it was a safe tune, nor that it was efficient. I could crank 16psi and make 300whp on my car but that doesn't mean its the right way to do it. Big power doesn't always mean the right way. 6-There is no substitute for standalone engine management when looking for reliable tuning solutions. Its the most efficient and safe way to properly tune a car. Big numbers aren't what good tuning is all about. Dont get me wrong by any means any sponsors or vendors or users of Enthalpy, just stating my opinion and what I know of based off experience and research. I am not in any way trying to dismiss anybodys product. Edited by NAhookup, May 21 2010, 01:25 AM.
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| omgshawn | May 21 2010, 12:36 PM Post #83 |
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Alright, so lets buy a standalone for a 10psi t28 setup...right. Sorry but that's just stupid, ROM tunes have proven themselves if you get them from reliable sources, and there is no real need for a standalone unless you making some serious power, or have money to blow. Remember a standalone is going to be $1K+, plus atleast another $5-600 to tune it...that's probably more than his setup costs. And -3an is fine, and I haven't had any problems finding it, you only got to buy it once right..? I didn't even bother to read the rest of your post...probably a bunch of opinions like the rest of this thread |
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| NAhookup | May 22 2010, 02:38 PM Post #84 |
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I'm running standalone megasquirt, which is fully as capable as AEM EMS or any other big brand engine manangement, and is adaptable to almost any vehicle out, costed me $275 w/harness! $275>$1k EMS go figure? I'm not here to argue nor try to prove anybody wrong but, lots of people need to realize that cheap doesn't mean right. Fast & Cheap= Unreliable Fast & Reliable= Never Cheap Gotta' pay to play, and thats with any vehicle. Can he get by on an Ebay tune? Sure! Can he still have the same control and adjustability as a standalone? Not hardly. Time in and time out, ask anybody who has done it right the first time and they will tell you to go with standalone. Standalone> Piggyback & Band-aid setups all week. |
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| omgshawn | May 22 2010, 02:50 PM Post #85 |
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I guess you can't read.. I never once said cheaper is better, I said there is no point in spending 1K on a ems for a 1K setup. And I said enthalpy, the real enthalpy tunes, which are not shit. If he wants to go build a megasquirt then do it, but I wouldn't bother unless I have a setup where something more then a ROM tune is needed. Seriously though, standalone for a t28 setup? I've seen people run that without tunes and not blow their engine... Megasquirt would be nice for the price but isn't the assembled one a good deal more expensive? And what if he does not have the skills/time to build one, which is where a rom tune comes in, the same path hundreds of people have taken. Just don't buy a shit tune and you won't have a problem And what are you doing about a tune for the megasquirt? To get a real tune, atleast around here, I've heard around $500 to be reasonable |
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| Saint | May 28 2010, 04:34 PM Post #86 |
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Emanage ultimate. Cheap. Adjustible. No shipping. |
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| xFIx Kaos | Jun 18 2010, 02:03 AM Post #87 |
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get the car tuned by VERVE Motorsports... |
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| xFIx Kaos | Jun 18 2010, 02:04 AM Post #88 |
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i can get u a Greddy Emanage Ultimate cheap...with harness...got 3 of them... |
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